While pet scorpions might not be common household animals, they captivate many enthusiasts with their unique behaviours and fascinating anatomy. Proper care requires attention to their specific environmental needs, handling requirements, and nutritional demands. Whether you have an emperor scorpion or a desert species, the following six tips will help ensure your scorpion remains healthy and content.
The substrate you choose for your scorpion's enclosure plays a crucial role in replicating its natural environment. Forest-dwelling species such as the emperor scorpion thrive on a deep, moisture-retaining substrate like coconut fibre or peat, allowing them to burrow naturally. Desert species, on the other hand, benefit from a sand and soil mixture that replicates arid environments. Regardless of species, providing a secure hide — such as a piece of cork bark, a half log, or a purpose-built shelter — is essential. Scorpions are reclusive animals that require a dark, secure retreat to feel safe and reduce stress.
Temperature and humidity requirements vary significantly between species. Emperor scorpions, native to West African rainforests, require warm and humid conditions: temperatures of 26–30°C and humidity levels of 70–80%. Desert scorpions, such as the hairy desert scorpion (Hadrurus arizonensis), need lower humidity (30–50%) and temperatures of 30–35°C during the day with cooler nights. Use a digital thermometer and hygrometer to monitor conditions accurately. Under-tank heaters or heat cables work well for scorpions, as overhead basking lights can overheat enclosures and cause stress.
Scorpions are carnivorous predators that require live prey. The prey offered should be no larger than the scorpion itself to prevent injury during feeding. Crickets are the most commonly used feeder insect and should be gut-loaded prior to feeding to improve their nutritional value. Mealworms, dubia roaches, and waxworms can also be offered as variety. Most adult scorpions require feeding every 7–14 days. Juveniles can be fed more frequently — every 4–7 days. Remove any uneaten prey within 24 hours to prevent the scorpion from being harassed or injured.
Most scorpions are not well-suited to regular handling. While emperor scorpions are considered one of the more docile species, all scorpions carry venomous stingers and pinching claws that can cause injury. If handling is necessary — for health checks or enclosure cleaning — use long-handled tongs or a soft brush to gently guide the scorpion into a container. Never handle a scorpion when it is moulting, feeding, gravid (pregnant), or has been disturbed, as these are times when it is most defensive. If stung, seek medical advice immediately, particularly for individuals with allergies.
While many desert scorpions obtain sufficient moisture from their prey, providing a small, shallow water dish is still recommended. Ensure the dish is shallow enough to prevent drowning — a bottle cap or petri dish works well. For humid-environment species, lightly misting part of the enclosure every 1–2 days maintains adequate humidity and provides a water source. Always use dechlorinated or filtered water to avoid chemical exposure.
Scorpions moult periodically as they grow, shedding their old exoskeleton to form a new one. Before and during a moult, scorpions become lethargic and may refuse food. This is normal. However, post-moult scorpions are highly vulnerable, as their new exoskeleton takes several days to harden. Remove any live prey and avoid handling during this period. Signs of illness in scorpions can include prolonged inactivity beyond a normal resting period, failure to eat over many consecutive weeks, visible damage to the exoskeleton, or unusual postures. If any of these are observed, consult an exotic animal vet with experience in invertebrates.